DuckWorks Bracket

After cutting the bracket to the correct length and cleaning up all the edges I managed to get the K1000 nut-plates installed. I used the NAS1097 rivets again for this and light countersunk the inner ribs for the factory head.

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

Left Wing Landing Light

Tad and I managed to get the landing light marked and cut-out of the leading edge skin. We used the sanding drum to smooth out the radius and knock down any high spots, used a straight file to take the waves out, then a bit of scotchbrite by hand and then on the die-grinder to make it very smooth.

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

W919

Finished getting all the nut-plates on the W919 Attach piece. Using NAS1097 rivets of course!

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

Prepare the W919 Attach Strip

I drilled the screw holes out to #19 size after getting the nut-plates #40 holes drilled. Deburred all the holes then dimpled just the #19 with a #8 die for the screws. I was still undecided on the method of installed the AD426 rivet... either Dimple or Countersink the W919 strip. After doing some reading i'm going with the NAS1097 shear rivet which is actually the preferred method. Using these rivets i will just need to do some light countersinking of the W919 piece and nothing to the nut-plate! The reason i can do this is because the NAS1097 rivet has a much lower profile head and the W919 is thick enough to allow a relatively small countersink.
Test material, notice the smaller head on the bottom left rivet. The Shank diameter of both of these rivets are the same.

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

Countersink #40 on Main Spar Left Wing

Tad stopped by on Monday to help finish off all the Left Wing skins. Also drilled the nut-plates onto the W-919 splice strip that connects the leading edge skin to the fuel tank skin. We also spent some time lightly countersinking(after dimpling) the rear spar on both sides to allow the dimples in the skin to fit better.
Over the last couple of days I've spent a couple of hours countersinking the #40 holes on the main spar to accept the skin dimples. With the main spar being a lot thicker than the rear spar there was no dimpling necessary... just full countersinks with the micro-stop on the drill.
They are all done now:)

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

Rear Spar and J-Stringers

All the J-stringers are dimpled now for the left wing. I also finished deburring the rear spar and started in on dimpling them with the squeezer.

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

Dimple Left Wing Skins

Continued working on the left wings skins. Tad and I did all the top skins last week and the wing walk doubler. I finished the bottom inner wing skin last night... the only one left is the main bottom skin. I'll wait for Tad's help on that one.
After these skins are dimpled the plan is to prepare the rear spar with dimples and prepare the front spar with countersinks. These will then accept the dimples we just put into the skins and once riveted will lock everything in place. Not only is the dimpling/countersinking producing a flush surface but it also make a stronger bond.

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build