DuckWorks Bracket

After cutting the bracket to the correct length and cleaning up all the edges I managed to get the K1000 nut-plates installed. I used the NAS1097 rivets again for this and light countersunk the inner ribs for the factory head.

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

Left Wing Landing Light

Tad and I managed to get the landing light marked and cut-out of the leading edge skin. We used the sanding drum to smooth out the radius and knock down any high spots, used a straight file to take the waves out, then a bit of scotchbrite by hand and then on the die-grinder to make it very smooth.

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

W919

Finished getting all the nut-plates on the W919 Attach piece. Using NAS1097 rivets of course!

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

Prepare the W919 Attach Strip

I drilled the screw holes out to #19 size after getting the nut-plates #40 holes drilled. Deburred all the holes then dimpled just the #19 with a #8 die for the screws. I was still undecided on the method of installed the AD426 rivet... either Dimple or Countersink the W919 strip. After doing some reading i'm going with the NAS1097 shear rivet which is actually the preferred method. Using these rivets i will just need to do some light countersinking of the W919 piece and nothing to the nut-plate! The reason i can do this is because the NAS1097 rivet has a much lower profile head and the W919 is thick enough to allow a relatively small countersink.
Test material, notice the smaller head on the bottom left rivet. The Shank diameter of both of these rivets are the same.

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

Countersink #40 on Main Spar Left Wing

Tad stopped by on Monday to help finish off all the Left Wing skins. Also drilled the nut-plates onto the W-919 splice strip that connects the leading edge skin to the fuel tank skin. We also spent some time lightly countersinking(after dimpling) the rear spar on both sides to allow the dimples in the skin to fit better.
Over the last couple of days I've spent a couple of hours countersinking the #40 holes on the main spar to accept the skin dimples. With the main spar being a lot thicker than the rear spar there was no dimpling necessary... just full countersinks with the micro-stop on the drill.
They are all done now:)

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

Rear Spar and J-Stringers

All the J-stringers are dimpled now for the left wing. I also finished deburring the rear spar and started in on dimpling them with the squeezer.

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

Dimple Left Wing Skins

Continued working on the left wings skins. Tad and I did all the top skins last week and the wing walk doubler. I finished the bottom inner wing skin last night... the only one left is the main bottom skin. I'll wait for Tad's help on that one.
After these skins are dimpled the plan is to prepare the rear spar with dimples and prepare the front spar with countersinks. These will then accept the dimples we just put into the skins and once riveted will lock everything in place. Not only is the dimpling/countersinking producing a flush surface but it also make a stronger bond.

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

DuckWorks

Started work on the landing light that will go in the outboard edge of the left wing. Haven't cut any metal yet, just getting the template cut-out, brackets polished,etc.
The actual mount that holds the light will have to be cut, shortened and riveted back together to fit the RV9 model of wing. Out of the box it will fit the RV7 and RV8 wings.

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

Blue Madness

Removing the blue plastic is always super tedious... this is how i removed it from the skin a section at a time while i'm deburring the holes.
All the skins for the left wing are now cleaned(deburred) including the sharp edges removed. They are now ready for dimpling.

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

DELUXE Fuel Caps

Tad and I decided to change the stock fuel caps with these VERY nice ones. This pic shows after countersinking them to match the dimples in the fuel tank skin.

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

SafeAir Pitot Mast

While i had the skin still on the bottom of the left wing i drilled out the Pitot Mast. i used a step drill in three places and then finished it with a small sanding drum on the Dremel.

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

T905 Attach Brackets

Tad made this up from some stock angle aluminum(supplied in the kit). these attach the front nose of the tank to the fuselage.
The reason one edge is polished is because he sized them to fit approximately... i cleaned them up a bit more so they'll fit inside the nose rib flange.
You do great work Tad!

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

T708 and T407 Tank Brackets

this took more time than it looks. the large hole in the rib needed to be cut out, i used Tad's aluminum nibblers and then cleaned up the edges with a sanding drum on the drill press. this worked pretty well, just time consuming. the holes for the screws and rivets in the T407 where already pre-drilled so i used those to match drill the rib... then dimpled the rib and then countersunk the T407 ring... THEN riveted nut-plates to the T407 ring. all this makes a smooth surface so it can be sealed with a 'Vans Cork Gasket' and ProSeal.

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

the other side ... the hole in the middle will hold the Float sending unit.

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

Fuel Drain

Match drilled the fuel drain.
used an old metric bolt to aid in centering the flange over the hole. used painters tape on the other side to take up the space between the skin and flange.

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

Countersink Left Tank Skin

To countersink these holes in the tank skin i used the rear baffle to support the countersink bit. after testing this on numerous scrap pieces, i committed to drilling them to their final size. They all came out very consistent and just a little shallow to allow for sealant to seal properly.
rear baffle attached...

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

Tank Stiffeners

Shaped and match drilled all the Left Tank Stiffeners...

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

Wing Tanks

No formal updates on the blog for a while but have been working on the wings. All the skins on the left wing are matched drilled now. Next was the Tank assembly. This is done mostly off of the wing skeleton except for when it comes to fitting the tank attach brackets. The way Van's wants you to do them seems a bit odd to me but after a lot of double-checking i got them drilled and nut-plates installed. Making the tank jig made the process of getting the ribs into the skin much easier.

Tank Z Brackets...

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build

Leading Edge Splice/Doubler W919

This W919 splice piece will join the tank skin and the leading edge skins together. getting this inserted between the rib and skin was a bit tedious but manageable. it will have nut-plates installed at a later point.

From Pete and Tad's RV-9a Build